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Peak Mountain 3

Torqued Off

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Description

Start at the tempting crack deep in the dihedral of Sunset Wall. Great rest position after you pull the first portion of the crack and get to the second tier. Stay on the crack line on the left of the roof and rest assured the crux is behind you. After the roof head left to the anchors. The roof is doable direct but kinda feels like your trying too hard to make it harder with such a good crack line to follow

The first crack has a tendency to seem overly difficult the first time but once you have the moves it's definitely not 5.11 material.

Apparently other locals have called this climb "torqued off". Don't know who called it that but honoring that name since it seems to be slightly older than my circle's naming convention.

easier variation on trad:  if you get pumped or otherwise don't want to do the  second roof you can traverse left - super smooth but great horizontal cracks and the rest will be sub 5.5.   Too much traversing to be safe on TR IMO. 

Protection

Set up a top rope anchor or trad.  I actually put a 0.5 around shoulder height at the start which is unconventional since obviously won't stop a ground fall.   But it does stop you from tumbling down the steep belay area.  It's a pretty committing first 10 feet on trad - not ideal if you're not strong in the grade.


Routes in Upper West View / Sunset Wall