East Face/Hand

Start at the low point of the rock on the East face. The start is on the Mallory cave trail just before it winds through a split rock and switchbacks onto the Mallory cave scramble section.

Protection is available when you need it. We did this with a 60m rope in three pitches.

P1- Head up picking your way on easy flaky rock. We belayed at the second ledge system after running up the rope.

P2- From here a short 5.3 (unprotected headwall) deposits you on a large ledge system in front of a chimney. Traverse right (north) to the edge. Peer down into the gully in front of the cave and crank up the protected crux of the climb. Follow a ramp system left to the chimney and belay before crossing.

P3- Cross the chimney and head up easy ground to the summit.

Descent: Scramble north to hiking territory and rappel East from a tree to the front of the cave or hike West through Fatman's Frenzy and then North and East to regain the cave trail. If you rappel, be aware that people might be visiting the cave below you. It is bad form to drop rocks, climbing equipment and even climbers on hikers....

Standard Flatiron rack.