Rainbow Warrior

This is a classic route that seems to have developed a serious reputation. In my opinion, the serious stories I have heard about it are not warranted--it is a well-protected route. Certainly worth checking out!

Relatively easy climbing (5.10 or so) for the first four bolts leads to a technical traverse at the fifth bolt. Traverse left on thunderclings to a deep slot around the base of the arete. From there, a stellar boulder problem climbs the arete, finishing with a big move to a good, sloping jug just above the anchor. Don't sell yourself short by trying to clip the anchor without doing the last move--it's a great finish! (Although it is a bit of a heart breaker!)

Apparently a direct variation exists that skips the left traverse, but I haven't tried it. I have heard it ups the grade a couple letters.

The bolted line just left of The Spear. (The Spear's name is painted at its base).

6 bolts to rap rings