Dark Side of the Moon

This is a squeeze crack that grows into a large chimney. Establish yourself in the #6 offwidth crack, and work your way upward (crux). Get inside when it widens into a chimney, and take advantage of numerous helpful features for your feet on the left wall. End in an obvious notch.

Dark Side of the Moon is the prominent chimney system several feet left of

Eclipse

. We found no anchor at the top of the climb. From the notch, it is possible to scoot right across a narrow, exposed ledge to reach the anchor atop

Eclipse

.

Large cams and Bigbros are the only pieces that will protect the first 40 feet of this climb. We used a single blue Bigbro in addition to single #5 & #6 cams; anything less would likely be insufficient. Sans at least one Bigbro, the climb is R-rated. Hand-sized cams can be placed in a crack to the left to protect the upper portion.