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Description
A great climb with a combination of fun gymnastic roof turning moves followed by a great hand/finger crack.
Climb up a ramp to a bolt on the right side of the roof. There is a bolt there that you can clip by lying back on a flake. Be careful not to pull out on the flake as it is thin and hollow. If you are under 5'9" you may have trouble reaching it. Make sure your shoulders and hamstrings are in good shape for turning the roof. Using your leg to lever yourself up over the roof can be really helpful. Climb up a crack (stay to the right) and top out on a large ledge with anchors.
In my opinion this is a great and often overlooked JTree classic.
Protection
Several TCUs and .5-1.5" camalots. You may want to clip the first (and only) bolt with a double shoulder length sling to keep the rope drag to a minimum.
2 bolt (3/8") anchor/rap with links and rings
Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)
- 5Head Over Heals5.10aTrad