Mattress

Spectacular movement on subtle, solid holds on a cool overhanging arete capped by an awesome technical dead point. Rock feels like Tiger Snake or Blindside. It is the best boulder in this main area.

Most people seem to start matched on the juggy brick, or with left hand on the pinch and right hand on the brick. For added difficulty, there are two more holds to the left, and if you start over there and climb into the brick, bonus points. :)

There are two variations for the crux (at least)

If you stay high, it is satisfyingly stiff for v9. I've heard a couple people say it could be in the solid 10 territory using the high approach.

If you stay low, you better be tall. I have a 6 foot span, and I can only barely reach between those low holds. The taller you are, the easier that low method is likely to feel.

Inaccurately given grade of v6 in the black. I talked to Mike Beck about it, and he says that that was a shot in the dark, not based on experience. Thanks Mike.

Old school classic!

Pass the slightly overhanging crimp covered face, and pass into a corridor with some trees. Start sitting quite low on the left side of the left overhanging arete, hanging from the lowest  flake that you can lay down into, then power up and right through a series of cool holds, and finish out on the face and up over the top.

Nice to have 2 pads