- Edit (TBD)
Description
A direct start variation to Coyote Rain. Flake the rope & have your belayer stand next to the tree, where the original start is to Coyote Rain.Begin the climb to the left & below the original start, below a right-facing flake & directly underneath the pine tree way up that is growing underneath a detached triangular block.Climb the lower slabs, then the flake, then a series of ledges. Clip the Chinos piton on the right, then continue up. Protect next in a small crack on the right (small pieces might make you feel better), then fire a somewhat thought-provoking crux. At the pine tree, go right. Do not sling the tree or climb the detached block - its integrity is questionable. Should be fine left alone.Continue right on jugs and up to the Coyote Rain roof. Fire the roof & continue up to the P1 tree anchor.A climb for those of you who want to combine the thrilling roof of Coyote Rain with classic Longstack ledge-hopping. Can also be toproped after leading Coyote Rain P1. FA J. Browher, Z. Ross, Jun 2020
Location
Left and several feet below the start to Coyote Rain. Directly beneath the pine tree / detached block higher up the cliff under the roof, going up where there used to be some terraces of dried-out bushes.Look for lighter-colored granite dents where we peeled some of the bad rock off
Protection
Standard rack to 2" (BD#1).
Routes in 4. Wonderland Wall
- 13Coyote Ugly5.8Trad