China Glide

Hard and high quality linkup of arguably the two best routes at Rumney. Start by climbing China Beach to the iron cross move. Rather than finishing out left, move right, straight into a hard boulder problem on small holds. This sequence feels like V8 in isolation, but has one rose move that’s super hard to stick when you’re pumped. One more hard move deposits you at the Livin Astro jugs, where you can recover pretty well. Then there’s the final crux of Livin Astro, an amazing dynamic boulder problem which actually has the hardest moves on the route. Despite the shared rest beforehand, this part feels considerably tougher to link on China Glide than it does on Astro. Definitely a redpoint crux for some and a mental crux for almost everyone. The reverse linkup, Livin Astroglide (Livin Astro into China Beach), is also worthwhile and goes at 5.14c.

Linkup of China Beach into Livin' Astro

Fixed draws