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Peak Mountain 3

Springtime

FA K Duncan, D Humphrey 2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a great route with sustained and interesting climbing.

P1) 5.11+ (height-dependent). Climb the slab up left along a crack to the first bolt, then go up to the intermediate rap anchors. Follow the line of bolts to the bulging crux. Spring up the crux (height-dependent 5.9-5.11+, but easily aided), then go left and up to the anchors.

A 60 METER ROPE WILL NOT REACH THE SLAB WHEN RAPPELLING. YOU NEED TO USE THE INTERMEDIATE ANCHORS, A 70 METER DOES MAKE IT. From the intermediate anchors, rap to the

Levitation

anchors and then to the ground. (See photos.)

Location

See photo for route and approaches.

Approaches:

  1. Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Angle up and right in a trough then scramble behind

Totem Tower

and across to the base of the route.

  1. Climb

Levitation

or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.

  1. Scramble from the anchors atop

Dragon Slayer

to those on top of Springtime.

Protection

Nine bolts and 0.75 to 2" cams for the initial crack.