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Peak Mountain 3

Hit by a Wheeler aka the Marvell-Wharton

FA Jackson Marvell and Josh Wharton 3/15/21
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I believe this was the first route up the central portion of Wheeler's northeast face, and probably also the first time Wheeler's northeast face was climbed in winter. It provides a relatively big Canadian Rockies like adventure in "middle of nowhere" Nevada. The rock itself is primarily "good" quartzite, but unfortunately it's mostly all stacked up like an unpredictable house of cards. We found no ice, only dry snow, but I imagine melt-freeze conditions in the spring could make for a kinder, gentler experience. The route follows the obvious thin ramp that slashes though the middle of the wall. The crux is a couple of steeper pitches in the middle portion, but expect engaging climbing throughout. I believe we shared some terrain with Stella by Starlight above the big lower snow ledge, and on the large exit ramp just below the summit, but we didn't find any previous signs of passage...It probably fell off.  We left approximately six pins in-situ. There is potential for many alpine adventures in the Wheeler Peak cirque for those not averse to choss wrangling. The two star rating is of course for the experience, and not for the actual quality of the climbing.

Location

Begin up the wide gully in the lower right corner of the wall. As things get steeper, a long tricky pitch up a slab along a left facing corner traverses into a steep black gully (perhaps filled with snow in some springs?), to gain the big snow ledge. Continue up the broad gully above for another 250' before angling left to gain the ramp.

Protection

1.5 sets of cams, some wires, pins, crash pad (preferably a Mondo).


Routes in Wheeler Peak


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    Hit by a Wheeler aka the Marvell-Wharton
    V2
    Bouldering · Alpine · Trad · Mixed