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Peak Mountain 3

Arcturus

FA Kerry Gunter (?)
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Description

Located about 40 feet right of

Scorpio Crack

is this thin crack with an orange streak. However, this climb is hidden from the Scorpio ledge. It is best viewed from the base area near

Harvey's Crack

.

The crack works its way up a right-facing corner and then traverse left under a roof. The first 70 to 80 feet are the most difficult, working your way up the fingertip crack (the face climb to the crack is scary). Once at the roof, work your way left on easier terrain. Be mindful of loose rock and gravel, as your belayer will feel it!

Location

There are two ways to gain the crack.

The recommended way is to gain the Scorpio ledge, and then work your way right and do a tricky downclimb to the small ledge below the crack. There are two small boulders that block the path, and the combination of the loose gravel and 160 feet of slab below make it exciting. *It might be wise to go on belay to do this.

Another variation is to go all the way to the base area, and then work your way up broken rock to the ledge. This would add an extra pitch to the climb though.

To get down, downclimb the steep gully on the north face.

Protection

This crack takes lots of small gear for the first part and then anything up to 3". There are no fixed anchors at the top.