Trundler's Delight

This pitch takes way more gear than it seems looking up at it from the bottom. Build a gear belay in the cracks at the base of the Waltz P2, and clip in until you get your first few pieces placed. Walk left along the narrow, exposed ledge about 15', and head up the face into a nice finger crack (one move up and you can plug gear). You will pass several horizontal seams, a bolt, and then go left of the obvious roof mid-pitch. Make a fun hand traverse, then up some more OK cracks, passing the 2nd bolt near the top. Belay at chains.

This route is intimidating looking, but I assure you there is plenty of good gear!

Descent:

Rappel route w/ 70m rope or use chains further back on buttress to rappel off the south side (preferred if busy).

This pitch is about 15 left of the 2nd pitch of the Waltz. It can be climbed as a variation of the Waltz P2, or can be approached on its own by hiking up the right hand side of the 1st prow, and then scrambling up onto the top of the first pitch of the Waltz. Start at the base of pitch 2 of the Waltz under the beautiful hand cracks.

Gear belay at base to protect the opening traverse moves, 2 draws for bolts, doubles from 0.3-0.75", singles 1-3", and 6-7 slings (1-2 longer slings are good). Couple of good stopper placements. Offset cams handy. Chain anchor on top.