The Host

Begin about 10' right of

Rage Against the Machine

and 15' left of

Jungle Blues from Jupiter

. There's a better photo of the route under the entry for "

The Vaino Step

." Follow a line of 5 bolts up a moderate .10b face toward an arete on the right. The 6th bolt is drilled into sloping ledge under a large roof. Undercling the roof, then clip the 7th bolt from a chalky, 3/4" edge. Stretch or dyno from the 3/4" edge to a left hand jam in an abrasive crack (strenuous), and work your feet up crystals until you can reach a fin on the right. Clip the 8th bolt (a difficult clip with ledge-fall potential if you skip it), and struggle over the lip of the overhang on mediocre holds. The anchors are a few feet up to the right. Lower 60' from links.

The 15' of climbing from the ledge to the anchors is sustained with several moves of .11c or .11c/d. Tape or a spider mitt will save some skin on your left hand.

8 QDs (A shoulder length sling to extend the 6th clip is optional).