- Edit (TBD)
Description
The obvious seam to the right of pie in the sky. Start at the same comfortable perch but take the finger crack just right of the first couple of bolts of pie in the sky. The first part goes at tricky 11a and has probably been previously led although some rock removal and scrubbing were needed to make it official. From there move up and right to a rest at a sloped ledge and sling a horn to save gear. Cast off above into difficult climbing with the hardest part arriving soon at a rightward traverse. Continue to the top of the wall through several more sustained cruxes to a two bolt anchor. This route has a wide variety of styles and some spaced gear. It's entirely safe to lead but requires a large rack to do so in one pitch. Plenty of great locks in true Patricia bowl style.
Location
Finger crack to what looks like a seam, to the right of Pie in the Sky at 1st buttress Patricia bowl. A completely independent line.
Protection
Nuts+ Quadruples in .3 & .4 plus a double rack micros to 2", A long sling for the horn above the first part. Zero fixed gear. An 80m with stretch will just lower you to the intermediate anchors on turning point or the ones on Pie. KNOT your ends!
Routes in First Cliff
- 6Hail Nah!5.12cTrad