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Peak Mountain 3

Organ Grinder

FA Bill Westbay, Larry Derby, and Mike Weiss.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

p1. Climb the crack in the cave to a ledge. Place a cam and head out left into the great chimney that is now run out due to rock fall (keep your back to the pillar seems best). Probably best to head back over to the crack after a bit when the chimney climbing gets scary and you need some gear. The anchors are at the top of the pillar/block  p2. Climb down and right to the flaring deep awkward good hands and feet through the offwidth crux. There used to be a tree at top for an anchor that is likely dead now. Some bolts are needed for the last anchor if none have been placed (else it'll be pretty awkward anchoring). If there are none then to descend go left (east) to the gully and upon nearing the bottom keep traversing back toward the climb.

Location

Looking at the Organ from the Big Bend bus stop it is the obvious line on the lower cliff band about halfway between the east end of the Organ and NE buttress of Angels Landing.

Protection

#3 Camalots (3-4+), a couple #2 and at least one or two #4 and maybe a #5. A couple smaller up high in chimney or run it out more.


Routes in The Organ