- Edit (TBD)
Description
The name of this variation is given with a double entendre. As a variation of
Fat Elvis
, which mentions the circumstances of his death, it seemed fitting. The second was the thoughts on the lead, runout quite a way, and in fragile health (torn rotator cuff, torn labrum, waiting to determine if surgery was required and not using the right arm). It came to mind that while things can look clean and tough, sometimes they are actually fragile, and shatter if dropped. In a way, this had already happened to me. I tore a shoulder catching a frisbee (eye roll).
Climb as for
Fat Elvis
. Off of the ledge at mid-height, pull up past the first bolt, and then look directly up at what seems to be a direct and obvious line. Climb this directly to the top through a slight bulge up high to reach the anchors from the right side. The holds are mostly secure but a bit lichenous. From the point of divergence, you could opt to move up and left to clip the second bolt with an extended sling then come back down and right before climbing straight up as well with a little more peace of mind if that is your thing, but it is not really necessary.
In any case, whilst lead with no gear at the time, it would probably take a few stoppers and certainly a sling or two on a chickenhead.
The route is actually easier than the bolted line to the left, IMO, and might be 5.9 or 5.9-. I am not sure, really.
Location
This route climbs up directly to the top, nearly on a plumb line from the first bold above the ledge of
Fat Elvis
.
Protection
All but the last 3 bolts of
Fat Elvis
. A set of stoppers and a few slings on chickenheads could probably protect the 30' runout up top, but it was done
sans
gear when we did it.
Routes in Der Freischutz
- 9Porcelain God5.8Tr · Trad