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Peak Mountain 3

Sword of Wotan

FA P2+3 Sean McLane, Jack Hill, and Forest Altherr, P1 Alison Sheets, FFA P2+3 Sean McLane
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Description

P1) A beautiful crack starts with a bold slab traverse into a tips crack and a fixed pin. Crux tips moves for a body length get you into the fingers-to-hands widening splitter. 5.12- PG13, FA Alison Sheets P2) Starts from bolts at the top of an unnamed splitter crack with a fixed piton. Exit the chimney left into crux big reaches between good holds. Enjoy the hand crack as it diagonals right, then goes straight up through a roof. Where the crack takes a 90-degree right turn, step left to the bolted face. One bolt takes you to a bolted anchor. 5.11a P3) Start right off the belay, following the bolt line with a couple early cruxes. After bolt 3, the climbing eases a bit and the climb is more spaced. Enjoy the exposure on the arete all the way to the summit. Rap back the way you came (tat on bolts goes over the edge) 5.10d R

*P1 and part of P2 look to be part of a route called Silver Spur. See the 1987 Rock and Ice article by Alison Sheets.

Protection

Double rack plus 8 draws for P3


Routes in Tower of Wotan


  1. 2
    Sword of Wotan
    5.12-
    Alpine · Trad