North Ramp

P1 (Easy 5th): Granite terraces of varying spacing and steepness ascend either side of a central narrow rock chute, choked with vegetation. I chose to ascend the right (north) side of the chute, since it seemed to offer ledges at consistent intervals ideal for my canine companion (though the left side appeared passable at a similar grade). The route I chose involved several lower 5th classes moves, separated by secure ledges, and scrambling of intermittent difficulty comparable at its hardest to the 5th class on the Knife Edge of the Shield. After ascending about 100 feet, an easy step left across the top of central gully leads to several notable aspens on more level ground and a large pine just uphill (useful on rappel).P2 (4th class): Ascend the broad ramp, trending to the left past several more large pines, ending below a broken dihedral, which starts about 20 feet above the highest substantial pine on the far left side.P3 (5.3): Climb the dihedral, which offers adequate pro and mostly solid rock, aiming for a notch with a small pine (false summit). Pass the small pine to the left and walk up to a clean 10 foot corner, where a few more fun moves top out between the branches of a mature pine outfitted with webbing and a rap ring (installed 9-19-20), suitable as a belay and rap station.From the top of P3, a 20 foot 4th class scramble gains the final expansive summit ridge - and exceptional its views!Cautionary Note: As an alternative to the broken dihedral described above, Hill’s guide suggests starting P3 higher up the P2 ramp and traversing back left over a more gradual line. However, at the time of my ascent, I discovered several foreboding death blocks stacked precariously (and seemingly miraculously) on a tiny inadequate pedestal just above where this traverse would begin. Without hesitation, I chose to steer clear of these delicately balanced threats and forgo lingering unnecessarily in the pathway of their impending downfall.

Traverse south along the east side of Hail Peak about a hundred yards before cutting NW into an obvious couloir marked by a towering pillar at the south corner of the entrance. Hike another hundred feet or so up to the base of P1.(For additional reference: this was my first trip to Hail Peak, and descending from Sandia Crest via Echo Canyon, the 1.6 mile hike took me 85 minutes down and 115 minutes up.)

Singles #0.3 to #2 should more than suffice.