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Peak Mountain 3

The Light

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Description

Traditional Temptation's big brother. This route opens with a launch off the deck to a hand jam, followed by short lie-back section. Stem from left corner to right corner, use a few more traddy finger jams, and find a rest. The first anchor comes after a few bolts of thoughtful, easier face climbing.8 more bolts get you to the second anchor. This involves a tricky (safe) traverse and some exposed crimping up a beautiful face of gray rock and chert.  A little dirty, but a very wild, lonely place. Probably 10+ if you nail the beta. 

Location

Belay bolt. Just before the alcove.

Protection

13 bolts to the first anchor at 25m. 8 more bolts to the 2nd anchor at 40m. (We lowered to the first anchor and rethreaded to get down with one rope.)