Sleeping Digit

This route is just right of '

Haul Off and Heave

.' It is distinguished by a tree growing out of it perhaps 4m up, and a hanging flake creating a roof with an OW crack to the left at perhaps 10m up.

Climb up to the tree and sling it (easy) and continue up into a crack to below a hanging flake. Go up behind the flake and clip a stopper (fixed) and some other potential gear, then get back out of the cave. Use long slings. Place another piece of small gear - a tiny red Camalot Jr. fits perfectly, ballnuts may work OK, too, I imagine. Then use very surprising, inobvious crux holds to pull up and over the bulge and into the crack above - climb this to a sloping shelf. At the shelf, clip a fixed pin and place as much brass as you feel safe with, then negotiate the final corner indirectly (it might be a short ledge fall if you goof and your nuts pull).

Belay just above the route.

Descend as for other areas route- down to the East to the 4th class downclimb, or further to the rap (red & green webbing) above

Move Like A Stud

.

One, 2' sling for the tree in the crack at the bottom, then a standard rack + a set of small brass or steel nuts. THe 5" piece Rossiter suggests is more likely to hinder movement than make you feel safe. The route protects well enough without it.