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Peak Mountain 3

Elbow Balcony

FA Ernest Richards and Elizabeth Koski May 30, 1971
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

In the 1970-80's E. Richards sent me a personal note with the full description, but I have lost the last 4 pitches.  Nevertheless, once one gets high on this crag the angle backs off and climbing becomes relatively easier, so it should not be a problem to "top out".Elbow Balcony generally follows the line of Elbow Gully (FA A. Wexler, et. al. 1946) at a level about a pitch above Elbow Gully. START- At the center of the main face a grassy gully rises up leftward [?] (NOTE: I THINK he meant to say "rightward" ! ? ) and follows the right hand edge of the face to the top. This is Elbow Gully. Elbow Balcony starts near the start of this gully. 1) Jam and chimney a large left-facing inside corner to a ledge at its top, then climb up and right to a small face and belay.  60 ft  (packs were hauled) 2) Up the small face moving staright up over easy, broken rock and faces to a large overhanging block.  Step up (on the) right side of the block following a crack to another block with a smooth slab underneath and to (its ?) left. 100 ft3) Continue up the crack, layback over bulge at small inside riught-facing corner. Move up the broken rock and slabs to the very left end of the rotten ceiling.  120 ft4) Traverse right under the ceiling over broken rocks, hand traverse around flakes to a small pinnacle and down-climb its right side.  Move across garden and up blocks to a small ramp below a corner, keeping under the ceiling. 100 ft 5 , 6, 7, 8 ?  I would presume that one would eventually "turn" the ceiling at its right end and continue more or less straight up.

Location

Start at lowered left of Elbow Gully

Protection

Std Rack Maybe include a #3