- Edit (TBD)
Description
This climbs the east arête of the formation. Start on less than good rock quality for the first move and clip the first bolt with a right knee high. Move up the Sloper dyke formation till its end and transition onto the arête proper clip the second bolt. Move up on sustained thin boulder moves. Go for the last bolt there is a good hidden rest and clip spot right at the horizontal seam up top by last bolt. Last " run out" spot is from the last bolt to the anchors. Look for the hidden jug up top at the curve of the arête with your left hand. " The Thank God Hold!" If this route was a couple more bolts taller it would be a classic. Great rock quality and if you boulder definitely a boulderers dream route in this area. I have heard some say this is pushing into the 5.9++ / 5.10- range.
Location
East arête on formation. ( Right across from The Bein Crack 5.10)
Protection
5 bolts Chain anchor