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Peak Mountain 3

Fiddle of Gold

FA Steve Brown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Side pull the arete that terminates the right side of the bulging face. This leads to an enormous no hands rest, although it's (VERY) early for a rest.

Follow the bolt line up and right. Pull the immediate mini-roof to a position at the flaring crack.

Climb the easier (sustained 5.10+) broken-up vertical face to a no-hands (if you can find it) rest below the intimidatingly enormous roof.

Pull hard on big moves on great jugs to the anchor.

NOTE: This route is exceptionally difficult to clean on rappel or while being lowered. You may have a partner clean this on their way up the clipped end of the rope, on top-rope. I will try to get some permanent draws donated from a manufacturer by Summer 2015.

Location

The line that takes on the full center of the imposing roof at the top of the CONCERT HALL sub-area.

More importantly, this is an amazing climb for its grade, in a perfectly remote location to only be climbed by the lucky few who get there.

CONCERT HALL sub-area 1 [[CH - Route 01 (5.9)]]109370890 2 [[CH - Route 02 (5.8)]]109370901 3 [[CH - Route 03 (5.12)]]109374292 4 [[CH - Route 04 (5.11)]]109374301 5 [[CH - Route 05 (5.10)]]109374308 6 [[CH - Fiddle of Gold (5.11)]]109371067 7 [[CH - Route 07 (5.10)]]109374184 8 [[CH - Route 08 (5.11)]]109374880 9 [[CH - Route 09 (5.7)]]109374889

Protection

13 bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor with permanent sport carabiners on the chains.