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Peak Mountain 3

Fang Shui

FA Jay Foley
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

After Stick clipping the first bolt and pulling the start the angle decreases to only mildly steep, but the holds shrink and the climbing gets technical. Pull the first crux involving a long reach of an undercling and head up to the second harder crux. Grab a sharp, painful, awkward pocket, make a hard pull and hit the better holds above. Slightly run-out at the top, but much easier climbing.

Location

Between Path to Enlightenment and the now chopped Guillotine. Look for the Steep route with left angling bolts at the center - right side of the cave.

Protection

6 Bolts to Anchors (bolts 4 & 5 have chain permadraws); Stickclip