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Peak Mountain 3

Excalibur

FA Chris Greyell, David, Darryl, Brandon
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A awesome line up the Illusion Wall. Very Classic. It runs up for 10 pitches. All bolts have a good stance for clipping.

1: 5.8. The approach pitch that will get you to the real climbing, ends at the 4th Class ledges. Trends up and left from the start.

2: 4th class. Traverse across the ledges until you reach the first set of bolted anchors. Short.

3: 5.10+. Starts off on some stiff face climbing leading to a nice 5.9 corner crack.

4: 5.10+. Follow the bolts up for more face climbing. The only pitch that is all bolted.

5: 5.9+. Start out going left and up to find a nice finger crack that lead you to the belay station just right of the signature flake.

6: 5.9. Signature pitch. Short and sweet. Takes you out left, underclinging the Excalibur flake. Go up and around to the bolted anchors (no chains)

7: 5.10-. More face climbing and small cracks lead you to the next anchors.

8: 5.10+. Has some small finger cracks, with a short traverse right.

9: 5.9. Has an awesome corner that appears harder than it is. Most rappel from the top of this pitch.

10: Easy 5th Class. Dirty. Just another pitch that gets you to the top of the wall.

To Descend: Rappel the route. Use only the bolted stations that have chains.

Location

Left side of the bivy clearing. From the 4th Class ledges, goes up right of The Page.

Protection

Standard Light Rack to 3"

Quick and alpine draws, 15 or so.

Bolted belay stations.

Two 60m Ropes