- Edit (TBD)
Description
A subspecies of Homo sapiens (Homo sapiens neanderthalensis), they had bigger brains than modern day humans and were known for their advanced use of tools and culture.
Starts in center of Cave just to the right of the major corner system as for Lucy. Climb through some powerful and steep movement through the bulge to reach good holds at the break. A tricky move here gains easier ground to the giant roof system. Trend right through the roof with good holds, and easily gain the upper face with an airy ( but generously-bolted) 11+ technical crux. This climb has some of everything. The upper headwall has fantastic and thoughtful movement.
Route History: The original start to the Neanderthal headwall is a variation called Meanderthal that avoids all the steep power cruxes by climbing the large dihedral to its left as for Cro Magnon and Lucy. A large traverse under the roof using a linkup bolt gets you to the headwall fun. Eventually a slightly more direct start, now referred to as "Neanderthug", used the right-facing dihedral as for Spearhead and then traversed back left at the break. This start was then co-opted by Spearhead and didn't completely solve the rope-drag issues. Besides, many folks are perplexed by the clever movement required to climb through the steep dihedral. And finally, in early 2019, the direct steep bulge start gives the route a plumb, clean line that links right into the upper sections and reduces rope drag. I suspect that many folks will just climb the lower cruxes and clip the anchors for Spearhead (Asterisk* Redpoint only). Resist this urge and you wont be disappointed.
Location
Between Spearhead and Cro-Magnon. Start as for Lucy/Cro Magnon and at about 15' step right to easily clip a bolt heading straight into the steep bulge. At the base of the bulge, clip another bolt that is hard to see, in a shady horizontal scoop, but easily reachable. Get your feet a little higher, and you can now clip the first fixed draw that protects much of the opening crux sequence.
Protection
13 bolts and two fixed draws. Use long draws for bolts under steep section to reduce drag.
Routes in Solar Cave
- 18Neanderthal5.12bSport