- Edit (TBD)
Description
High up in the gully, on the left side is a very nice looking finger crack with a steep start that leads up to an arete. Long thought to be an abandoned project, recently this was given a scrub, a bolt at the top and bottom and given an "FA" and a name. Oops. It turns out this was previously climbed by Tim Gotwols and Chris Hassig in the early 1980's and later given an anchor by Brady Libby. Fun climbing, with a pumpy steep section..worth the extra hike up if you are in the area and it protects well with only a small handful of gear.
The original line traversed in to the base of the crack via a thin seam (probably bumps the grade up a little), and then escaped left near the top, with the second doing the direct finish with a top belay. The added bolt at the bottom protects a fun direct start and the one at the top protects the final run to the anchors.
Location
almost at the very top of the gully, on the left side, left of the glue-in bolted face climb.
Protection
2 bolts, a few finger tip sized nuts and cams. A blue #1 Mastercam is great after the first bolt and the orange one at the top of the crack, bolted anchor
Routes in The Very Nice Crag
- 12'Lectra Crack5.9+Trad