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MapDescription
Mistakenly labeled as 5.12 in the newest Creek book.
Execute an awkward boulder start to the ledge 15' up. A nice left-facing corner with rattly fists or butterflies (there's a thin-hand to fingercrack on the right wall) leads to the slanting upper bulge which pinches down from off-fist to cups where it rolls over. A challenging wide line!
The rock along the right-hand thin crack and on the right face along the bulge is a bit crunchy.
Location
Between Nubian Slave and The Sicilian.
Protection
(2).5,.75 (1)1 (2)3, new 4, old 4 (3)new 5--BD sizes
chain/cold shut anchor
Routes in Scarface
- 17Cocaine Blues5.11Trad