- Edit (TBD)
Description
Left variation of The Sky That Refuses To Die. My super project. Formerly known as The Sky Leftthis openprxject now has a new name. If you snag the FA of this climb, the bolter asks that the name remains as is. Mountain Project won't let you add the grade of 5.13d/14a, but that's what is proposed. Needs consensus of course.Edit 2021: Sent on 1/5/21, couldn’t have done it without the support of my friends and this community, big ups to everyone involved. Always be peaking. There are some other new betas that the homies are working on for the second crux, but I did it with my OG beta, my own way. I guess I was gonna do things my own way regardless. Maybe this is how it was always going to end. maybe none of us understand what we have lived throughClimb up the ledge left of Discotheque, up through some juggy shelves, pull the ferocious first crux involving an undercling spanning to small holds and the crescent feature. Rest up and from the crescent, bust out left into two finger pockets, a tiny three finger thread, choreographed footwork, and eventually a heartbreaking dyno of staggering genius to a blind, blocked pocket-edge. Climb up through the open-mouth hueco and clip the purple chains. I want to say that this climb should be topped out, because there are holds there, but the top of the cliff is private property, trespassing is bad, we never trespass.This climb is the original line envisioned by the one and only Mike Klein, before any of the bolts were up. This climb is a teacher. This climb is a battle. This climb is a dance. All climbing is dance. This existence is a dance on earth until we move onward. This climb has challenged me in every way, physically, mentally, all of it, down to my core. Although I didn't send, I learnt more hanging in that roof than on any other climb. This is why I climb.Señor Fuerte is at Rogers ~ Señor Muerte is in this cave ~ who will complete the triumvirate with an FA of Señor Suerte?Can't stop won't stop I love climbing.
Location
Walk to the left of Discotheque and nearly in the center of the cave you'll see the obvious crescent/sickle flake in the roof. The first 3 bolts of this route have black hangers, the next 3 bolts are glue-ins, the last bolt has a silver hanger. Don't clip the green permadraw, clip the two magenta ones, and the purple anchors.
Protection
7 bolts, permadraws. Sport clip anchors.
Routes in Centex Sportsman Cave
- 11Señor Muerte5.14aSport