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Peak Mountain 3

Interceptor

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Description

This is an option up high on the wall that should be seen more as a diversion than a target. There are better climbs to be had, but if you've done everything else, put this on the list.

From the Fang Ledge, which can be accessed via

Osiris

,

George's Tree

,

Sports Pages

,

Road Kill

,

Pseudo Wallet Eater

, or even routes as far right as

Fat City

, find the shallow inset that has the 3rd pitch belay as for

George's Tree

. Climb up and out left from that into increasingly flaring and increasingly difficult jams (crux) for 20 meters to turn up and over a false summit and then climb another 20-30 meters of lower angle rock with hand-sized gear to reach a belay ledge below a 10 meter headwall. Belay here on small cams and medium stoppers, or continue up and over for a full 70m rope length to the summit on finger and thin-hands cracks (left) or a wider crack (right, take 4" gear) and belay on the summit.

Walk off as for other summit routes, first NE to a gully that is taken down to join

The Cave Exit

top-out area, then down that scramble/trail.

Location

This route starts on Fang Ledge directly above the top of

Pseudo Wallet Eater

. This is in the same little inset as

George's Tree

, but Interceptor goes out the left side of it into insecure flaring cracks, rather then up the right as for

George's Tree

. The route climbs a semi-direct line from there to the top of the wall.

Protection

A standard rack of nuts and cams. Take an extra few thin-hands sized for the flaring thin-hands crux and plenty of 2-foot runners.

The most critical protection you can take, however, is really a set of tape-gloves. The flare would be much more secure if taped-up.