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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown Chimney

FA unknown
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Description

Scramble up the massive, easily protected ~5.4 gully for about 50 feet before the more technical climbing starts. Protection gets gradually harder as the chimney constricts. Replace claustrophobia with acrophobia by moving out from the constriction, and start stemming to pull the exposed, runout roof. This is the crux. It's hard to protect this roof and a fall would stuff you in the narrow constriction below. Provided the lack of sunlight seen by this chimney, it was somewhat icy, but surmountable, as of late April, 2020.

There are no bolts at the top of this route, but I slung the obvious boulder at the top, and backed it up with 2 pieces for belay. If you are feeling lucky, there is a single bolt on the right of the top out ledge which could potentially be used for a rappel, otherwise continue up Skyline Arete.

If you know the name of this route, please let me know so I can change it.

Location

Forboding looking chimney immediately right of Crystal Caper.

Protection

Full rack of cams. Passive pro didn't seem to fit well for me. If you aren't comfortable with a single bolt rappel, be prepared to finish Skyline Arete.