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Peak Mountain 3

The Toiler

FA Tai DeVore, Marty Lewis - 9/11
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A candidate for the best route on the Mustache. Three pitches of quality climbing.

P1: Start on Double Dog Dare. At the 11th bolt continue straight up instead of moving left. Good climbing in the seams with a reachy crux near the top. High quality pitch. 12a, 18 bolts.

P2: An immediate crux leads to an excellent pitch of grooves and patina. Again, good rock and good climbing. 11c, 13 bolts.

P3: More cracks/grooves but with a little less patina. A crux sequence from the hole at the end of the pitch takes one to a great belay station/ledge. 11c, 13 bolts.

Descent:

a) 3 rapps down the route.

or

b) With an 80m, go to the top of Supergrinder. There is only a few feet of rope left, knots advisable. The second rapp does not quite make the ground but deposits one on easily downclimbed terrain at the start of Supergrinder.

Location

Shares the same start as Double Dog Dare.

Protection

Bolts. Mussy anchors at each belay.