A Farewell To Youth

Starting from a medium sized boulder below the crack step left onto the face and climb 6-7’ of face on big and positive holds to gain the first section of finger crack. Lieback or jam this finger and hand crack for 10’ to gain a big ledge/cave and shake out. Above the cave follow the now flaring crack for a few feet until it widens back to fingers then thin hands. About 10’ above the ledge traverse a little to the right of the crack and crank a few overhanging face moves on progressively bigger holds to the chains. Because this climb is all on it’s own it will probably not see much traffic so despite our best efforts and the time we spent cleaning it and running laps on it you should still (as always) beware of loose rock. You can also rap in to the anchors from above to set a top rope by walking 50’ to the left of the base of the climb and scrambling up where you see an obvious 10’ section of maybe 5.4 just below and left of a tree. Be careful of the old rusted barbed wire both at the bottom and again on top of the cliff. There is a cairn where you need to head down towards the cliff edge to find a rap anchors.

About 100 yards before the boulder, on the right side of the trail is a 40' cliff band of orange rock. "Farewell To Youth" is the obvious crack splitting the wall.

Single set of nuts and cams. We also used both brass offset nuts and ball-nutz because we had them, but while helpful they are not needed.