Old School

It's rare in

American Fork Canyon

that you climb well above the tops of the tallest trees; this route combines fun exposure, a great, secluded location, and some good climbing.

P1

(5.10a, 70 feet) Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge. Look right about ten feet and slightly up and you can see the two-bolt belay anchor. Climb up, clip the next bolt, then traverse right and slightly down to the anchor. Granted it's weird, but it'll make sense for pitch 2.

P2

(5.10b, 80 feet) If the second is leading P2, it's easiest for the second to just keep going rather than to traverse over to the anchor (you've got all the draws anyway). Follow three bolts up along an arete and then cross to the right side of the arete onto a slabby face. Traverse up and right through two more bolts to the base of a bulgy headwall. Surmount the steepness using fun moves while marveling at the view, then continue up to the anchor.

To descend, walk off down and right to the gully on your right. It's likely possible to get down using two raps, but since you brought your approach shoes with you, why bother?

Located at the east (downhill) side of the buttress that forms the right side of the upper part of the gully containing

Visionary Wall

. Approach by either walking up the left side of the

Visionary Wall

gully near the left wall and then cutting across the gully, or continue along the stream bed and scramble up the next gully to the north.

This is the right of the two bolt lines.

P1 9 (maybe 10?) bolts, Metolius rap hanger anchors

P2 9 bolts, Metolius rap hanger anchors