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MapDescription
So this route is an extension to Seams Novel 5.8, from the anchors you want to traverse left to move into the most prominent crack inside of the varnished flaked wall. From here you can protect the climb with a .75 cam and sling a chickenhead, move on up 20 ft and sling your last chickenhead and get ready for a runout of 40 ft on 5.6 slab climbing without pro placement and very mental and airy. Keep on trudging straight up until you hit a brittle ledge with a slanting seam where you build your anchor with #3, #2, #1 or .75 cams. The descent is the as for Great Red Book.
Location
About 150+/- feet right of the Great Red Book. Walk off to the west.
Protection
3 bolts and single cam rack to hands; also can sling some chickenheads.
Routes in The Great Red Book Area
- 16Michi’s Fear5.8Trad