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Peak Mountain 3

Great Expectations

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Description

This route wanders delightfully all over the face to the left of Right Wing wall. Start in the Herbarium corner and climb up about 15 feet onto the protruding block. Traverse all the way to the left, passing under a small roof formed by another large block. Follow the ramp you'll find on the other side, up until you are forced onto the arete on your right by a roof. Step right onto the face and move your feet up in preparation for a big step left. Grasp the sloper gratefully and scramble up the arete to the top.

Location

Starts in the Herbarium (far left) corner of Right Wing wall. Walk off to the right.

Protection

Best with double ropes because of traverse. A 4"+ cam protects the first moves. Plenty of pro across the traverse and at the start of the ramp, BUT... opportunites and quality dwindle to zero long before you reach the crux.

The metal railings cemented into the top can be used to anchor a toprope. Protect against a pendulum at the start by flicking the rope over the corner of the block.