- Edit (TBD)
Description
This nice climb is located just left of
Smoke Down
near the right side of the rock. It goes up the obvious, right-facing dihedral past the roof. The climbing is thin and fairly sustained, with interesting stemming and footwork. The crux is moving up to a stance below the roof. From there, nice jugs can be found to pull over the roof, and it's much easier 5.7 or 5.8 crack and face climbing from there to the anchors. Rap from the anchors at
Smoke Down
.
The climb might warrant an "s" rating, but if the small nuts and RPs hold, then it should be considered reasonably safe. This is a very nice warmup for some of the other routes nearby.
Protection
RPs and small wired nuts, plus a few small to medium cams. I used a #3 RP at the crux, so a Screamer or two might be useful if you don't trust a fall on small pro.
Routes in Black Widow Slab
- 19Wired5.10aTrad