Pumpy Overhang

Pumpy Overhang is the long, overhanging,

Your Mother

-looking headwall pitch about halfway along the broad west face between

Get Whipped

and

Undertow

. It climbs more or less directly above the right side of the large, bird-guano arch at ground level. From the ledge, you can see it go over a small roof, up the face into a small, right-facing corner, then up onto very steep, purple stone.

To begin, you can either lead up the moderate (5.7) lower wall, right of the arch, on gear (blue and yellow TCUs, a stopper or two) to get to the ledge, or solo this portion. If you lead it, perhaps tie into both ends of the rope, and then drop the one you lead this lower bit on once you clip the first bolt, to avoid drag issues. Alternately, you can walk left (north) out the ledge from

Undertow

with your rope, then drop it down to a belayer on the ground. Beware some shaley-type choss along the ledge.

A 70-METER ROPE IS MANDATORY in either case.

Once you're all settled in at the first bolt, climb up and left into an open, sorta crumbly corner, then over the rooflet (5.11) to a small stance. Look up and out at the seven bolts of climbing that remain -- way steep!

We figured the climbing got just a notch harder with every subsequent clip; as the angle steepens, the pump builds, and the moves get harder and harder until you hit distinctive, bouldery cruxes passing the eighth and ninth bolts. Think: Rifle-style footwork jessery, big, soapy pinches, and power.

Double-bolts with chains just over the lip get you back to the ground, or jump off onto the last bolt for a fun-ass victory whipper.

I've heard ratings thrown around anywhere from 12d to 13b. So, umm, err, "Boulder 12d." If you get the Beta right, this thing is a powerful, Arsenal-style jug haul; if you get the Beta wrong, it's a mega-sad-super-bouter flailfest.

This is on West face of the Slab, about halfway between

Whipping Post

and

Undertow

.

10 bolts. Use extendo draws or shoulder slings on the lower three bolts. Metolius #2 and #1 TCUs, a few nuts.