Matt's Line (AKA: Left Of El Cautivo)

A surprisingly good route that would make a good intro to the area. The line is easy to find, easy to follow, straightforward, relatively well protected, and quite pleasant. The Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona book (Kerry, 1997) was the only book we found which refers to the area, and details are sparse. It lists El Cautivo as the only route and refers to a picture with a line and bolted belays drawn in. To note- this route would have been quite new or non-existant at the time of publication and perhaps was largely unknown. One might advise to bring some gear and slings for chicken heads, but no gear was required.

P1: Start off on P1 in a wide grey water-streak. Climb up on amazingly good friction passing a very short section of 5.9 climbing. After about 25 meters, the climbing angle will increase nearer to vertical, but the holds will increase in size to match. You will continue past many bolts to eventually reach a bolted belay, perhaps 190' up. We climbed with a 70M rope, but I am advised that a 50M would be long enough for this pitch.

P2: Continue up on the obvious bolted line. Another long pitch (perhaps 140' ?) will take you to another bolted belay. Again, the crux of this pitch, perhaps 5.9- is quite short and most of the climbing is pretty mellow.

P3: What can I say- cast off again onto a line of bolts. Perhaps using a few slings rather than draws on some of the bolts that are placed a little out of line, as the climbing on this pitch wanders a small bit. Near the top, perhaps 40 feet from the end the most obvious line of climbing goes directly up, if not slightly left. But the climbing and bolts dodge that and head up and right, through a final crux. While slightly contrived, the climbing there is very worth-while. Welcome to Cochise, the land of no hands and no feet. Finish on tiny slopers that seem to hold you securely, regardless of your prejudices against such things... Belay up on top on a 2-bolt anchor.

Walk/scramble off as per the description on the 'Rock' page as for Out Of Towners Dome. Or Rap 'El Cautivo' or 'Out Of Towners'. I suspect two ropes may be needed.

The route is toward the right side of the Out Of Towners Dome. Once you have arrived at the base, walk to the right (East) past the ramp as for Out Of Towners and continue for perhaps 30 meters more to arrive at the base of a bolted line through a low-angle slab. The bolts initially run through a grey water groove, and continue to the top of the dome, interrupted only twice by belays.

A set of draws and slings, perhaps 18 or so. While the book suggests a light rack and some slings for chickenheads, we wondered if the route really ever required them, as it was pretty well bolted on any climbing harder than 5.4.