All The Pretty Horses

Mostly superb climbing up the center of the Roan wall.  The first three bolts of this route are reachy and there is a persistently damp crimp between bolt two and three.  Once at bolt three, the climbing becomes really enjoyable with large and small positive pockets and fun sequences through steepish rock.  You get a very good rest at bolt eight, followed by two bolts of jug hauling through steeper rock.  This first section is probably 12b, the hardest part being the sequence between bolt two and three.

You reach the first crux at bolt ten, passing a small overlap to gain the upper panel of the cliff.  The rock quality is amazing from this point on.  You make a few big moves between decent but small holds to gain a good left hand pocket.  This felt about V7. There is an ok shake here with another pocket for the right hand.  After this you have to do the hardest part of the route, consisting of 2 deadpoints, first to to left hand crimp and then to a right hand pinch. The moves are powerful, it’s probably around V8.  Fifteen or twenty feet of 5.12 guards the anchor.  A very quality route except for the start.

Middle of the Roan wall.  Look for the two obvious start holds, a left hand wide pinch and a right hand undercling side pull.

14 bolts to a two bolt anchor.  Also be aware that you need a 70 meter rope to lower as the ground slopes away at the base.