- Edit (TBD)
Description
Do not climb this route...
The guidebook description says "climb the start of Vector Trouble... to a short blocky section to a perfect hand crack... and lower from fixed gear."
First off, the "fixed gear" doesn't exist or has been booty-ed. Secondly, the "perfect hand crack" is a fine hand crack, but found on about 5.2 terrain which is guarded by a 5.7 fist crack to a nearly unprotectable blocky section that felt much harder than 5.7.
We trundled two large (toaster oven or so) blocks that were just sitting in the blocky section that pulled right out and could have seriously injured a newer leader. Protection above the ledge is sparse and a fall in the blocky section would cause someone to hit the ledge.
It's just not worth it. Climb something else.
Location
Shares it start with Vector Trouble. Look for a large, orange block with two cracks and a ledge about 25 feet up.
Protection
no anchor at present. be prepared to leave something under the roof at the top to lower from. gear up to 3"
Routes in Long Wall
- 6Route Less Traveled5.7+Trad