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Peak Mountain 3

Birch Corner

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Description

Another fun (if a little dirty) crack climbing adventure at rumney. I thought it climbed really nicely so if you like this sort of thing fear not. There is great protection and the crux is over at about 20 feet up.

Stem up with good hand jams to the roof where you get a nice jug and good foot holds to get a good piece or 2 in the crack before pulling the crux. Layback and jam out right on a nice hand crack, watch for a good foot out right before and awkward move back left puts you at the tree and the more moderate climbing. Climb up and right of the roof above and on to big trees to belay (no fixed anchor) rap from here or scramble (technical in parts) to the left and on to solid ground in about 200 feet.

Route Map: mountainproject.com/v/new_h…

Location

The far left end of Triple Corners. Continue left of the last bolted routes at the cliff, you scramble over a fallen tree and a couple of small boulders and look for cracked a corner on your right with a birch tree growing out of it at about 20 feet up.

Protection

Regular rack. belay from trees and rappel or do a 200 foot scramble left (stay roped up) to safe ground.