The Wizard

Of the four of us, Clay lived in Leominster, whereas the rest of us lived in NH, CT and Boston, but one day Clay says we should come check out CH so we rendezvoused there, did Tarzan. I spied The Wizard, and that was it - it was on. We kept coming back together there over the course of a couple of months to put it up and then never climbed there again as most of our time was spent in the Gunks, Cannon, or CT.

The climb actually starts at the top out of Tarzan, traverses across a couple of old lines, and swings the arete to climb the overhanging face on the other side topping out directly under the hanging block.

While putting it up, we logged a lot of air time turning the arete and off the overhanging face on other side of it and blew through about eighteen Air Voyagers in the process (an old type of screamer once made by Wild Things

), and that included multiple falls per screamer which we kept sport taping back up and reusing until all the bar tacks were blown.

We all gave it about the same number of goes, but Marco came up with the goods and brass ring for the FA.

Great fun.

[ Probably should have called it 'Cheetah' at the time and glad someone finally thought to pay that homage. But we took so many falls and Marco kept saying: "Help me Mr. Wizard, Help me!!!" (from the old Rocky and Bullwinkle cartoons) just before falling and the name stuck ]

youtube.com/watch?v=ZuvQRdD…

It is on both sides of the corner arete high above Tarzan and Jane.

Small wires and cams. All the pro is on the near face side of the arete with the cam in the horizontal slot before swinging the arete being the last piece.