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Peak Mountain 3

Chevalier de Balibari

FA MJM & RAMM, 5/2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Like its neighbors

Full Metal Jacket

&

Jack Torrance

this route is still dirty and dusty in spots.

Start on beautiful, gray rock with a very large hold to smaller holds to the high first bolt. Start trending right with cruxy climbing near C2 to a mini-rail out right with some hidden incuts to clip the high C3 for the bigger holds. Clip C4 and stay right for the reachy, big, flat edges. At C5 move up to the next clip. Near C5, go up then head left to clip C6

(there is rope drag here, so a double draw or a long sling on C6 maybe helpful

) to a flat rest spot. Above the flat rest spot clip C7 and climb some dirty rock straight up past a close C8 with tricky moves and a bit of a run to the ring anchors.

Location

Kubrick's left

,

hike along the wall up stream/uphill past

Lady Lyndon

.

At the top of the inclined trail, Chevalier de Balibari is the first route.

Protection

8 clips to anchors.