West Face Middle (a.k.a. Black Canyon Simulator)

I like to call this the Black Canyon Simulator because you get to climb on some pegmatite, tiptoe around some questionable holds and jam on Black Canyon-esque granite.

Start below the ugly chimney in the pegmatite and then move right to climb the splitter crack to the right. Climb through the pegmatite band and dontinue up splitter cracks, trending left before arriving at the base of the upper face and arete. Climb just left of the arete past two bolts with a height dependent crux at the last bolt (maybe 5.9 if you're tall but seemingly much harder if you're short).

In the middle of the west face, look for the big, ugly chimney in the pegmatite. This climb starts below that chimney before climbing a splitter to the right.

Gear to 3" and 2 bolts at the top on the face.