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Peak Mountain 3

Sky Pilot

FA Marc Hanselman and Drew Daily 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sky pilot is the north arete of Rearing stallion peak. It is a long fun route. The second pitch crosses a couloir and upper pitches follow the ridge crest. There are short sections of harder technical moves some of which can be avoided. The entire route has great exposure.

Rock quality is ok, you'll run into more loose blocks than solid. Finding anchor points in good rock is a challenge.

Location

Approach:

Start at Wildhorse campground and hike the road south until you get to an old mine. Alternatively, drive or ride mountain bikes down the rough road and park at the mine (roughly 3 miles from the campground). The road is extremely rough! Once you arrive at the mine cross Wildhorse Creek heading west.

Follow the map in the gallery from here. Stay on the game trails as much as possible. As you ascend the west ridge you will come across three old mine shafts. These are good indication you’re on the right path.

Once you reach the top of the ridge line you should see Sky Pilot.

See Approach Topo

Descent:

Upon reaching the summit of Sky Pilot, you’ll need to descend the south face of the mountain. This descent requires scrambling over large loose boulders and 3rd-4th class ledges which seem to never end. After making your way down to the base of the amphitheater, you’ll need to follow game trails and hug the terrain to the north. With enough bushwhacking you’ll make it back to the Wildhorse Creek. Follow the creek until you reach your original crossing.

See Descent Topo

Protection

Standard alpine rack. Single rack to 3. Small nuts were very useful up high. Cams more useful lower.


Routes in Rearing stallion peak


  1. 1
    Sky Pilot
    5.7
    Alpine · Trad