We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.Add photo
- Edit (TBD)
Photo
MapCentury
Description
The first pitch is thought provoking tricky climbing. Not a great first 5.8 lead.
This could be done in 2 or 3 pitches and you could avoid most of the upper Saber pitch by climbing further right.
Location
starts the same as the right hand start of Saber, veers right where Saber goes left. Be sure to protect this right finger traverse past ancient piton to LFC layback up and left around small roof ( Crux) up arrete of buttress, either belay on pedestal with view of Saber, or continue up to big ledge .A big roof looms overhead to the right, traverse left around roof to easy 5th class climbing to summit.
Protection
standard rack to 3". many small cams and nuts. Long slings for rope drag. All gear anchors
Routes in Upper Castle
- 32Century5.8+Trad