Rapé the Donké

This route is the easiest way up formation but certainly not the most enjoyable. Consider one of two single pitch routes on the north face accessed via a ledge from the east – a clean-looking, blue-collar OW (requires some big gear, est ~5.10) or an amazing finger crack (first half tricky to protect, est 5.11). This route begins on the furthest east portion of the 1,500-foot long ridge making up The Hidden Dragon.

Climb up a sandy terrace to a ledge with an angling crack going up and left. Follow the crack left which is the crux (scary and loose but takes some pro). Continue up easier terrain to a super chossy band. Then traverse left on very sandy exposed holds to a Hilti screw anchor (we didn't place and I recommend replacing to a proper 5-piece sleeve bolt anchor.) The traverse is scary for both the leader and follower.

Then romp west up the narrow and exposed slickrock ridge to summit block (class 3-4). A final un-roped scramble (class 4) up the summit block leads to the tippy-top. The views are A+!

East side of the fin.

Single rack, 2X BD C4 #4s