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Peak Mountain 3

Touching the Coop

FA Geir, Marcy, and Doso
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb is not on the Coop itself but rather on the tower immediately west of the Coop. The two towers are connected by a natural bridge formed by several blocks. Touching the Coop is on the northeast arete of the second tower. It's necky 5.10 but the thrill is worth it.

While the natural bridge is well away from the route, we still respect its mass! Therefore, we broke with tradition and installed a "clip and lower" anchor at the top of this route rather than making the leader top out. Please check the carabiners at the top before lowering. Note that the carabiners are part of the anchor, please do not remove them or your ropes (and everyone else's) will be badly twisted when pulled.

Start by scrambling up to the left side of the arete, placing gear in a crack. Clip a bolt, move onto the arete, and climb up a few moves (5.10). The gear is good but tricky and a bit spaced out in places. Some committing moves and a second crux lie just before the second bolt.

This climb is for a solid leader at its grade.

Location

On the north arete of the tower immediately west of the Coop. When approaching the Coop from the main trail, bear right on a trail heading to the route. Look for the natural bridge and fixed anchor at the top of the tower as these are the most easily visible marker for the route.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 camalot. Doubles of #2 camalot helpful.