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Peak Mountain 3

Minnows on Mescaline

FA Andrew Gomoll, Larry DeAngelo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the varnished crack to the major chimney. The direct start is hard (5.10?) but there are easier variations on the adjacent face. Three pitches up the chimney system lead to an exit on the right. The fourth pitch continues straight up the rounded buttress above, passing a few delicate moves to a belay stance near an obvious diagonal crack. Go right along the diagonal, then up to a small stance on the side of a chimney. A long pitch up the chimney leads to the top. (The last pitch is also the top pitch of Guppies on Ritalin.)

Location

After squeezing through the vertical tunnel on the Aquarium Wall approach, continue up the canyon for another hundred yards. Cross left to the wall at an obvious ledge. The route starts in the varnished crack immediately to the left of the clean, razor-cut dihedral of Guppies on Ritalin.

Protection

Standard rack plus a 6" cam